Archive for January, 2009
FOOD – Les Sans Culottes: Encouraging diners to get caught with their pants down.
I had passed by this unassuming French neighborhood spot countless times without ever attempting to go inside. Part of the reason is probably because I could never pronounce the restaurant’s name (I studied Spanish in high school and never understood why anyone opted to take the less practical French. I’m like a local celeb in my midtown east ‘hood because I ask for my daily coffee with skim milk en Espanol in the restaurant’s adjacent bodega). Anyway, I never attempted to enter the French bistro, but I did manage to take a look (peeping-Tom style) into the decorated window every time I passed to get that café con leche.
Like clockwork, I’d always find a packed house of patrons merrily drinking goblets of spirits while throwing their heads back mid-guffaw. I could never hear what was going on from the street, but they could have been singing “Master of the House” from Les Miserables for all I knew. The restaurant could actually serve as the set of an off-Broadway rendition of the award-winning musical. That did it – I had to go in. So I put on a beret and made a reservation for two.
We were fortunate enough to be seated that same night, as another party had cancelled due to the inclement weather (the beret came in handy). Upon being seated, we were greeted by a tower of sausage…a “sausage tree,” if you will. I admit I was overwhelmed at first, (and by “overwhelmed,” I mean that I reverted to an awkward pre-teen, sheepishly shrinking in my chair unsure what to do with the tiers of phallic meats). However, I was immediately reassured (and revived to my 20-something age), once greeted by our hospitable server. Jolis instantly made us feel like family as he correctly pronounced the name of the restaurant (so I wouldn’t have to), and explained that Les Sans Culottes literally translates as “Without Trousers.” This referred to the working-class commoners who fought (without uniforms) for their independence during the French Revolution.
The brief history lesson put me at ease and gave me a greater respect for the carnivorous cornucopia that was positioned before me. The meat was aligned with a bread basket and a trio of bowls filled with gherkins, house dressing, and paté. The second-in-command was the basket of crudité, with artillery ranging from whole cucumbers, peppers, radishes, and celery stalks, to oranges, apples, and cantaloupe wedges (Potence De Cochonailles, Panier De Crudités Terrine De Pate Et Vinaigrette Maison, complimentary appetizer). We immediately ordered a bottle of the night’s house special, which was an enjoyable Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend ($29), recommended by our knowledgeable new leader, which proved to be a strategic move. Something to note, this dining experience is not for the hurried. The staff respect the independence of each course, and do not bring out the entrees until you have exhausted your time with the front-line of appetizers. Once we (Tasmanian devil-style) devoured the meat/veggie dichotomy, my dining date and I unified by sharing the Crevettes Provencales (sautéed shrimps with a tomato and garlic sauce, $25 price fixed) and the Entrecote (shell steak, $35 price fixed).
The best part of our alliance with Jolis is that he offered an assortment of the six sauces that the chef concocted: mustard, cherry, brown mushroom, herb, peppercorn, and red wine.
It was a condiment lover’s dream and, in my eyes, Jolis instantly transformed from a loyal ally to a revered General. The shrimps were perfectly prepared, and the steak, although very fatty, was divinely flavorful (especially after I ran each bite through the assembly-line of sauces). Just when we thought Jolis was close to earning a Purple Heart (as well as ours), he brought us two desserts: the Créme Bruleé which he torched for us at our table, and a house Crepe which was not on the menu (I told you. We’re boys. Band of Brothers-style).
As we neared hitting a wall of indulgence, I came through like a bayonette and asked Jolis for a glass of sweet French wine. Even I had no idea exactly what I meant, but he did, and brought us a glass of a non-descript clear drink on the rocks (I forgot the name; note, the bottle of house wine earlier, $9.50.) It was just the secret weapon we needed to lead our dining experience to victory. Who knew that my earlier reconnaissance would lead to my joining the troops, drinking merrily, throwing my head back mid-guffaw, and even conducting the reprise of the Les Mis crowd-pleaser. But have no fear, I was donning pants…and my beret…while doing so.
Inside Scoop:
-Make a reservation to ensure getting in. This is a neighborhood standard.
-This is only for fans of the prixe fixe menu.
-This is only for fans of a fun dining experience who have the time to indulge.
Les Sans Culottes (French, Bistro)
1085 2nd Ave @ 57th Street
Phone: 212.838.6660
Hours: Lunch, Fri-Sun 12pm-3pm / Dinner , Daily 5pm-11pm
Credit Cards: Amex, Visa, MC
VOICE – SIRIUS RADIO Audemars Piguet commercial
“Hey Sirius listeners…” is now running on Sirius during the Howard Stern show and other Sirius programming.
Check it out here: SIRIUS RADIO Audemars Piguet spot
And thank you for asking which AP watch I’d like. I happen to fancy the the AP Ladies’ Millenary. No really…thank you for asking.
MUSIC – My Soundtrack of 2008
The following albums released in ‘08 comprised the bulk of what I was listening to over the past year. That’s because these albums are either: A) musical gems, B) from artists with whom I worked, or C) sources of masochism. In other words, if it were 1994 (my favorite year in music to date,) I’d be making you a mixtape with a song from each of these albums to document my year in music. Maybe I’ll make you that mixtape anyway…and maybe you can make me a well-constructed Italian hero sandwich, and we’ll call it even.
